Mahendi

Last Sunday I went to the Arabic Neighborhood (Kampung Arab) Ampel in the north of Surabaya. I actually wanted to try Indian food as mentioned by a friend in from blog, Mbak Tantri. As she suggested I had to go to Ampel and walk through the small alleys.

I�ve checked on my google map to find about the restaurant location, at Jalan Sasak 15 Surabaya.  I went to my sister�s place first by bemo, then we went to Jembatan Merah Plaza. This shopping centre is located near the legendary Red Bridge. We could reach the neighborhood by becak for aout 7 to 10 thousand for two persons. But, since it�s Sunday morning and I was on my adventure mood I decided to walk and enjoy the old city of Surabaya.

I passed Jalan Panggung, after the Red Bridge. Along this one way street I could find old abandoned houses. They�re in the art-deco style, just like Dutch and Chinese houses in the past. Most of the houses were left empty and unwell managed. After walking for less than 10 minutes I smelled fishy disgusting smell. It�s the fish market, Pasar Pabean. It was 10 in the morning and the the market is still close. I and my sister kept walking along the small street. There were some men in sarongs, maybe they�re students in madrasah (Islamic School in Ampel area).  The Arabic area is famous of its Islamic tradition, custom, and also the Sunan Ampel mosque and grave. Sunan is a great Islam teacher and he spread Islam in the ancient time in Java.

At the end of Jalan Panggung, I found T-junction of Jalan Sasak, the place where I should head to, and big street of Jalan K.H Mas Mansyur. I crossed the street while keep refusing many becak drivers who offered us to take their becak.  Jalan Sasak is just like Jalan Panggung. A small narrow street. I passed many Islamic books and holy Qur�an sellers. I also passed some Arab perfume sellers. Along the street I met many Arabic. They�re not native Arabic, they�re the generations who were born and raised in the city, Surabaya.

Right in the street bend, I found an old green ornamented cement gate. It is the gate to the Sunan Ampel Mosque area. I passed and kept walking to find the restaurant. Unfortunately it was close. I called the Indian restaurant owner, since he put his mobile phone number on the billboard, and he said the chef was sick. So�in a big grief I walked to the mosque area.

After entering the main gate,  I actually entering the market zone. There were many shops which sells Arabic clothes, food, nuts, accessories, etc. Then I remembered my student who told me about a place to make temporary tattoo using hena. Hena is a natural ink which can be applied in our skin or hair. It last for 2-3 weeks after applied.  I walked slowly and try to find the shop. The shop name is �Amir Hamzah�. It�s not specialized in temporary hena tattoo making, but it�s a shop which sells sarong, kopyah (cap), sajadah (praying mat),  arabic tea set, dates, and other Arabic souvenirs.

It�s written in the poster that they have Mahendi (the hena tattoo) artist. It opens from 9 a.m to 8 p.m. But it�s for ladies only. I searched on nice pattern for my hands. It�s cheap. This is the best news :D. Most pattern costs 10,000 rupiah only. Years ago when I was in Jogja I should pay for 35,000 rupiah for a very simple tattoo. I regret  this a lot!

Anyway, here�s my tattoo and the making process. The lady, the artist, is so skillful in applying hena. She copied the pattern based on what I chose from the pattern album. And within less than 10 minutes I got my both hands beautifully painted by her. The result? Beautiful tattoos. Should come here again when mine has faded away.

Applying hena - the ink to my hand

The result